These bite-sized, round castella cakes are adorned with the characters of the Chinese zodiac.
In Okinawa, there is a long-standing tradition of visiting temples dedicated to the guardian deities of the Chinese zodiac, known as "Shuri Junishi Mairi" or "Teramai" (temple pilgrimage).
Located in a residential area of ​​Shuri, "Eitsubaki" is a shop that sells cute castella cakes inspired by the Shuri Twelve Zodiac Pilgrimage.
Made with Okinawan ingredients such as brown sugar and purple sweet potato, it's perfect for enjoying while strolling through the historic streets of Shuri, or as a souvenir.

1. Eitsubaki is a small, charming confectionery shop.

Eitsubaki's shop is located in an old house that used to be the home of the owner, Ms. Kinjo's parents. The entrance from when it was a house has been converted into the shop space, and seven types of sweets and a small display case are neatly arranged in this compact space.

Since this is also the main family residence, there is a Buddhist altar in the back room.

The couple wanted to spend more time together here, so the wife, who is good at making sweets, decided to try making and selling karinto (a type of Japanese snack) and castella (a type of sponge cake), which is how they started the shop.

2. Eitsubaki's Gentle Sweets

▲Photo taken during a visit in February 2023▲

Castella comes in two types: a soft and fluffy version and a chewy, slightly firmer version.

▲Photo taken during a visit in February 2023▲

The ready-to-eat snacks include brown sugar karinto (fried dough snacks) and six kinds of castella cake.

▲Photo taken during a visit in February 2023▲

The boxed products include ① a castella cake assortment, ② brown sugar karinto (fried dough snack), and ③ a castella cake and brown sugar karinto assortment, each available in large, medium, and small sizes. There's also the popular winter melon pickled in kinako (roasted soybean flour) in a large box.
The packaging, which was done by his wife, is also lovely!
The most popular item is a castella cake containing pickled winter melon, which is rare even in Okinawa. The pickled winter melon used is from the long-established Okinawan shop, "Jihana Kippan-ten."

This time I bought the zodiac animal castella cakes with branded designs (fluffy version) and chocolate chip castella cakes.

It was incredibly fluffy and had a gentle flavor. My daughter and I ate it all in no time.
One of the thoughtful aspects of Eitsubaki's sweets is that they do not contain preservatives or other additives. Children can enjoy them with peace of mind.

3. Sweets unique to Shuri, a city with a rich history.

During the Ryukyu Kingdom era, the royal government assigned each of the twelve temples in Shuri to a corresponding zodiac sign, using them as guardians of the capital.
Currently, the twelve zodiac signs are assigned to the four temples that still exist in Shuri, and many people visit them during the New Year holidays or at milestones in their lives. It is said that even today, local people can still be seen bringing offerings and praying in the traditional way.

An explanation of Shuri was also posted inside the Eitsubaki store.
Even from my perspective as a Shuri High School graduate, the Shuri Twelve Zodiac Pilgrimage is quite a long walk, about 3 kilometers in total, and involves a lot of uphill climbing. Water and snacks are absolutely essential! (lol)
It seems that the general route is to visit the temples in the order of the Chinese zodiac, starting with Shuri Kannon-do on the left, then Ankoku-ji, Daruma-ji, and finally Seiko-ji. It's best to stop by Eitsubaki on the way from Daruma-ji to Seiko-ji.
Let's make a final sprint while enjoying some fluffy castella cake and aim to complete the walk!

4. Basic information about Eitsubaki and parking

Eitsubaki is about a 10-minute walk from Gibo Station on the Yui Rail.
The roads near the store are narrow, so if you're going by car, you might want to check the map beforehand.
Look for the shop's flag. There is a parking lot behind the shop.

Aya

Born in 1974 in Naha City, Okinawa Prefecture. A weekend writer who secretly works hard to deliver Okinawa information for adults, hoping to cheer up people of her generation who tend to settle into the "usual."

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